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When compiling a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might expect well-known high-end establishments. Yet, situated high among these culinary titans is a modest salonu found in a distant corner of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

This little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. The accolade has left the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I’m totally surprised,” remarks the owner’s son, referring to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their small place securing such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its former charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the fare, and this restaurant more than excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent texture.

It is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

It is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Ethos of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s success is bound to resonate outside its own walls. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this culinary honour.